Cocoa pods
Posted in: Classifieds ARCHIVE
http://www.cocoapodshop.com/
Anyone know where I can get a couple of pods for display and education? Nothin on ebay so any other suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
Cheers
Dirke
Discovered Eataly on 25th and Broadway in NYC last week. Nice selection of Italian chocolate and confections. Bought truffles and a Barbero bar, Santo Domingo 70%. $8.80 for 3.5 oz. Very good.
Since I was in the neighborhood, I passed by Burdick and said hello to a former student of mine who works there. Purchased a Venezuelan bar and a Bolivian bar which were fantastic.
Hit Black Hound on Friday and had a few truffles. The young women who waited on me was from Haitian ethnicity and when I showed her my chocolate paste, she said her Dad brings it back from the Dominican Republic when he goes. She also gave me a white chocolate truffle which I can do without next time.
Sunday my wife and I drove to Maryland and took a Chocolate 101 class with Crisoire Reid at Spag n Vola. Her husband Eric sat down with us and was very generous with his time and advice. His partner Justin does a nice tour of their operations and is very engaging. A groups of about 12 people made ganache, rolled truffles, table tempered, and dipped. I was their mostly to meet them and was very impressed with the quality of their chocolate. They have their own farm in the DR and have complete control from tree to bon bon. You must try it.
Today I visited Fika downtown in the financial district. You can watch the chocolatier mold through a glass window. I introduced myself and he was very nice and willing to spend to time speaking with me. Fika means coffee break in Swedish. Had three truffles and a sandwich.
Hard to say exactly not knowing your storage conditions, but chances are the white powder is either yeast or mold. Pretty normal, i'd not be overly concerned unless it's fuzzy.
It does? But I have a feeling I might store it wrongly, I put it in this plastic tank, and put in some coal and those packets that absorb moisture and smell, and occasionally when it's sunny and dry outside I bring the beans out to dry (does this consider as aging?) Strangely every time when I open the lid to get the cocoa beans out, the temperature is noticeably cooler inside. Some beans have this white color covering it. After I roast the beans, some are loose, some are tight together, and some have this powdery texture (I always throw this beans with powder out) Is it usable?
Sorry that my question doesn't seem to end :S
Glad it worked! Since you pulled all the levers at once, it's hard to say which one did it 8-)
Letting dry beans age for 5 months is actually very, very good for the beans. Don't worry about that (as long as you stored them properly)
Thank you for all of your advices. It came out great, no sour or astringent taste at all! I roast the beans long enough that I can sense the changing of brownie smell turns to acidic smell and then back to brownie again. I let it conche for 34 hours, open the lid, blow in a little bit of air and hair dryer. Also added the Baking Soda. Despite it smelling like someone's smelly foot throughout the conche, I put it in the fridge and the next morning it ended up tasting good, bitter sweet.
Thank you Sebastian, thank you Richard, thank you Rodney! :D
And also my beans I brought them since October last year, and I just decided to buy a melanger so 4-5 months, I aged it a little bit too much. I think that this over fermentation of beans won't happen anymore. Thank you for all of your advices. 
Best
Panod
Dear Panod,
Perhaps you could try to increase the temperature upto 75 degrees Celcius during the grinding for some 12-24 hours? You could use a hair dryer or some other device for this, but be sure the temp goes up!
Best
Rodney Nikkels
Altering post harvest practices can have a tremendous impact on the flavor of the beans - chances are his beans are of decent bean stock, and that it's the handling after growing that would be tweaked to get him something he's after. Age of beans (both from a maturity as well as how long it's been since they were 'picked'), disease state (especially in his part of the world), fermentation quantity, configuration, and protocol are immensely important, as is drying. If he's driving down to see the plantation, it's my very strongsuspicionthat whomever is providing him with beans isn't very well versed in post harvest control, and doesn't really know what 'levers' to pull to adjust the outcome. I assume you're working with Darin at UWI - he's great - just remember that he's got a very specific field of vision (WI specific), which has lots of history with their local govt's influencing things, and the origin has somepeculiaritiesthat would have me caution you on drawing too many parallels using the results from here to other origins.
In general, i'm of the opinion that it's a much smoother road to spend the time with your supplier(s) up front to direct the outcome so that 'fixing' it later doesn't have to be done. Some 'fixes' can be affected with processing, but it's a much tougher road to travel, and there's no guarantee of success!
Thank you Sebastian for your insight, I'll keep the lid off and let it conche for ~36-48 hours. And will add baking soda after 36 hours(If it still smell bad). Like 1/2 teaspoon? I'm making a 400 g batch.
At the beginning of next month I'll be visiting the farm down south to see how they grow it. Will post pictures 
Thank you Sebastian!
Just noticed your location. Do you have any insight as to how the beans were dried (or better yet, any influence over how they're dried?). Which country are the beans coming from (i'm assuming they're in your region..)
You're quite likely not doing anything wrong; what you're seeing is the result of fermentation, which generates lots of organic acids - and may have been left to go longer than it probably should have. Remember that there's no 'right' way to ferment beans - this farm you're working with may very specifically be targeting acidic beans, as that may be what someone has directed them to do in the past for a specific flavor profile, be it alone or in a blend. Or it could be that they screwed up. Hard to say w/o more details. You've got a few options you could try, i think:
1) Roast at a lower temperature, for a longer period of time. You might even consider wetting the beans a bit and trying to steam off the acetic acid by azeotroping it. I probably wouldn't start with that, but it might be something to try at a later time of other approaches don't give you what you want.
2) Take the lid off your melanage, and let it melange for 3x as long. Acetic is a fairly low molecular weight organic acid - you can tell this because you can smell it. If it wasn't, you couldn't smell it. It wants to go away. You're trapping it in by keeping the lid on, and the longer you let the cycle go, the more opportunity it will have to escape. Also consider heating environment (keep it below 160F) as heat has a direct impact on volatility.
3) Try adding a little bit of baking soda to your batch. Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) is a very weak base. You've got some acid present. Give the two a chance to dance and neutralize one another. You'll have to play with the levels, but i'd start very low.
All of those haven't been tempered yet, and right now it smell acidic and unwelcoming. :S
Hi! I really need advice.
I keep on having problems of making chocolate that taste acidic. I've made 7 batches so far.
Each with different temperature, mostly either short high or long low.
Especially the long low roast a little more than half way I get this scent of acidness and at the end resulted in a little bit of a burned brownie smell.
Many roast I would get this nice smell of chocolate aroma.
But despite all these roasting which turns up to be smelling either nutty or chocolaty smell, every batch I pour into the melanger, I would get this instant rush of acidic smell, and when it turn liquid I add in sugar I tried 70%, 62% 60% 52%(with milk powder) first 2 batch I'm surprise to see that after 6 hours I would get this fine chocolate already, but I let it run until 12 hours. All the batch after that are 20-25 hours. After conching I would pour it into a container and let it settle a bit and store it into the fridge for 2 weeks. After 2 weeks, still some acidic taste.
May I know what I did wrong. The ingredient are only beans and sugar, I have no access to lecithin or cocoa butter at all.
I mostly keep the lid on, because I let it run over night, and it make a lot of mess when open. I sometimes use the hair dryer like 5-10 minutes.
I also look at the farm that supply the beans and it is certified by the local research center for quality.
What could be wrong? The conching time is not enough? More hair dryer? Longer and hotter roast? Need to open the lid?
Thank you in advance for all of your advices.
I was looking for classes preferably in NJ that would one day make me a Chocolate Jedi but unfortunately I haven't been able to find anything.
Hi Richard,
I'm interested in learning about the classes on Bean to Bar. I went to your website and found that the class is offered in California. Do you have any classes in NY-tri-state area? Please kindly supply the upcoming class schedule.
Thanks
lots and lots of places do confections training - i was approaching the question from a bean -> bar perspective. If he'd like more general confectionery training, there's hundreds of places to go for that...i may have misunderstood.
Check out Jomart Chocolate. They offer a individual class that you can design with them. I think it was $240, so it isn't cheap and it looks like they focus on confections. Has anyone attended the La Maison workshops? They buy their base already made so they may have a video or something, but it appears to be more of a tasting.
Thanks All! I did check out the website for ecole chocolat and it seems pretty great. If you come across anything else in nyc, i'd love to hear about it. Thanks!
Vidya
Depends on what the choices of microbrews are at the local pub afterwards 8)
Sebastian;
If I host a course, will you be a guest speaker?

Cheers
Brad
It's been my experience that there are very few schools out there - ZDS in Germany does a bit of it, but not many others. Not many people have the full breadth and depth of knowledge to span the full range of ingredients (cocoa, milk, sugar, emulsifiers, flavors) as well as processes and how they interact. Might be an opportunity for some enterprising person to try to assemble an educational event targeted to specific needs.
If you can connect with the TCL members from NYC they can help guide you. A few I know are Brady Brelinski, George G (I forget her screen name here... maybe runnerNYC?), David Arnold, Adrienne Henson. They're all very helpful.
There are also online classes you can take. Oh, what is the name of that well known school? echole chocolate? or something along those lines.
Hello - I'm in NYC and I'm looking for a good chocolate making class anywhere close to the area that not only gives me some hands on experience making chocolate but also helps me better understand the entire process of how chocolate is made (from the cacao to the bar etc. ) Does anyone have any suggestions? The only comparable thing i've found so far is at the La Maison du Chocolat.
Thanks!
Vidya
For cleaning molds. I clean only if
A. I have a problem which shows up on the chocolate or
B. It is a seasonal mold that is being put away till next year. I wash in warm soapy water and rinse in an acid (vinegar would work but I use citric acid because I have it on hand) and air dry.
As for polishing there is corn cobb media that is made for polishing plastics and comes in 50 lb bags. I have a homemade "tumbler" (basically a drum on rollers). I put the molds inside and roll it over and over (plan to put a motor on it one day) and the corn cobb grit polishes and removes all traces of oil.
In regular use lightly warm the molds with your heat gun just enough to cause the film to liquefy before lining the molds. Don't worry it would take a whole lot longer to over heat the mold than most people would have patience for. Play the air over the mold maybe 5 at a time and then fill. I got this from Jean Pierre Wybau in a Seminar I attended in Montreal@ Callebaut Academy. It works wonders. If anything shows up after that you need to wash.
Also for the heat gun. Get a retractable cord and mount it on the ceiling of your shop and adjust it so it is just over your head. reach up pull it down use and tug and let it go back up over your head. Keeps the counters clear and gun accessable and never accidently droppped on the floor
Hope it helps
Dave
Hi Ashley, I've used that method for years, but I'm looking for detailed instructions on using the sodium hydroxide method. I have no employees, dozens of molds, and I work in a 7'x9' space that makes heatguns impossible without making the temperature skyrocket. Hence the need for a faster, simpler technique. The previous discussions on using sodium hydroxide (lye) would work much better for me and I have almost gotten it down, but I'm looking for more those more experienced in the method to give me some more detailed insight. Thank you for sharing your method though, I appreciate it.
Has anyone developed a system that cleans their molds on a regular basis, and would you explain in detail how you go about it? I work in a home kitchen with a double stainless steel sink and use powdered food grade lye with mixed results. Should the washing (soaking) water be cool, like with soap-making? (This cuts down drastically on the fumes.) How much time in the lye bath? How much lye in the bath? No scrubbing in the bath, but in the rinse, or no? When scrubbing, what to scrub with?
I put 3/4 of a cup of crystals in a sink full of hot water. I had two windows open and it was not enough to vent the fumes from the hot water. I will use a n95 mask from now on, along with chemical gloves and goggles. I soaked six molds for 15-20 minutes then rinsed for about a minute in a clean, HOT, rinse water; no scrubbing. A couple of the molds came out with CB film still on them, the others appear clean so far.
Please, if you have clearer instructions, I would be most appreciative. It takes longer for me to buff all of my molds than to fill them with chocolate and ganache, and I don't have the luxury of a dishwasher or employee. This technique would save my butt. Thank you!
Sorry - should have done a little more research before posting.
The FDA said essentially the same thing as the lab guy.
Hi Brad,
I can't find anything like this from any of our commercial vendors. I did find it at a local Chemical Supply company, but it's what they call "Technical Grade".
Do you know if this would be safe for molds?
The lab guy there said - off the record - that he thought it would be fine if rinsed well.
Would you share the brand name for the product you're using?
Thanks a lot,
Tom
I once had difficulty getting my molds clean. However I bought a standard Bosch dishwasher which has a disinfectant cycle that gets hotter than most dishwashers. I believe that the heat factor is important for the complete elimination of the cocoa butter. I use Cascade Advanced Power liquid and voila... clean molds. Immediately when washing and rinsing are finished I hand dry them with a soft cotton cloth which both dries them and polishes them. The results are fantastic! I use primarily molds with smooth shapes and get excellent shine.
Hi All,
being absent for a while..busy re-locating my factory.
We buy SH directly from a chemical factory in liquid for (40% concentration), the crystals are just 100% pure so you need to be careful with the amount used and take enormous precautions while handling it!
We fill our sink with hot water and add SH, we soak for a while the molds and then rinse in hot water while gently scrubbing. Our results are not yet 100% but we are happy with it so far.
We are going to test a higher solution (till water turn pink as per Brad instruction)
Definitely is a matter of creating a "recipe":
X % SH @X% concentration for X amount of Liter of Hot water...
Let's see who can crack this mystery of cleaning!!!
Greased Lightning leaves a scent on your molds so don't use it. I tried it on a mold I never use. Dawn and water got rid of the film.
I'll try Sodium Hydroxide again later.
Tried it again with very very hot water and doubling the lye and I still have a film, just not as thick. I wish I had access to whatever solution you're using Brad, as I just have food grade lye, and now I'm out of that. A few questions:
Do you soak your molds in the Sodium Hydroxide solution for some amount if time or do you just swish them around in it?
I'm rinsing the molds in a bucket of hot water. Maybe I want to run hot water from a sprayer?
I'm using a solution of 5 oz Sodium Hydroxide to 15 pints of water, or about 2% Sodium Hydroxide. Clearly that's not enough. What % do you think your solution comes out to?
I can't get any food grade lye around here, I have to order it. I can get pure Sodium Hydroxide crystals, but I don't know if it's food grade or what that means. It's sold as a drain cleaner. But if I rinse it, SH should be gone either way. Do you think that's safe?
What's the brand name of the product you use?
What is the film? Is it soap (sodium hydroxide+fat from the cocoa butter=soap)? Can I just polish it off or should I clean the molds with Dawn?
I'm about to try a 4:1 solution of Greased Lightning on one of my molds that has the film. I'll post how it goes.
1. you didn't use HOT water
2. you didn't use enough Sodium Hydroxide. The water should be pink.
Dry them right after either with compressed air, or a microfibre cloth. They will look like new.
I got a film on every mold. I don't know what to do next. Clean them all by hand with soap? What went wrong?
I used Sodium Hydroxide (lye) today for the first time and it worked pretty good. I used 15 cups of water to 2-1/2oz of pure fod grade lye. I thought the solution would do everything but some crevices on the undersides needed to be lightly scrubbed out. I used a potato brush.
How can I be sure all the washing solution is off the molds? I swish the molds around in clean water I change every 10 molds or so. Is that enough? I'm thinking of running the molds through my diswasher on rinse.
True this!
I have two halogens in a stove hood. I used to place molds beneath the lights and they would warm. But I noticed that some warmed more or better than others. So now I lay a sheet of Al foil under up to six molds and the halogen lights warm them all very evenly. And, yes, the chocolates have a FANTASTIC shine to them. I really notice a difference when I forget to pre-warm the molds this way.
You can slightly heat the mold before filling so there aren't any temperature shocks in the chocolate, also gives the chocolate a nice shine (even when it's not polished)
All of my molds are polycarbonate. I spray them with lukewarm water until I can see no chocolate remnants. Then I fill the sink with lukewarm water and a little Palmolive and I splash each mold around in the water for a few seconds -- no washcloth or anything else. Then I rinse the molds with reverse osmosis water, rap them on the counter a couple of times, and let them air dry on towels. I have perfectly clean molds with zero water spots. Chocolates release beautifully and I never see any chocolate residue in the cavities themselves. They seem to be slowly but surely building a microscopic CB presence. I also wipe the molds and cavities with a shammy before each use. I've noticed no ill effects at all. But after reading through this thread I worry...
Am I woefully ignorant of something here?